Lake District National Park

Escape to the Lake District

As late afternoon settled itself warmly amid the fells, Lake Windermere turned copper under a weakening sun; we drank up the remainder of the day along with pots of tea on the hotel terrace.

It was just us and a pair of ducks. The view down the lawns and out over the lake was sweeping, black birds chortled goodnight, cherry blossom confetti drifted in the breeze and our mallard friends dined in the terrace fountain while we mused over the dinner menu. Our setting: Fayrer Garden House Hotel.

A former Edwardian residence, the hotel sits just on the southern fringes of Bowness-On-Windermere (a mere three-minute drive away) in amongst five acres of garden. The three-star country house hotel is ideal for couples seeking relaxed and quiet surrounds.

Wainwright Lounge overlooks the terrace and the lake beyond and it is here that most guests, at some point, will settle back with a morning paper, walking maps, afternoon scones or a pre-dinner aperitif.

Four-course meals are the main event come evening and chefs David, Andrea and Sylvia of the Terrace Restaurant ensure the menu changes regularly. Particular favourites of ours were the venison with braised red cabbage, celeriac puree, glazed parsnips and a redcurrant sauce.

As well as this, a confit of Lakeland belly pork adorned with creamed cabbage, gratin potato, pea mousse and sage cream sauce. To finish it off, hunks of Quickes Farmhouse cheddar downed with a mouthful of Pinotage - just wonderful.

Staff at the hotel are incredibly warm. Each afternoon we found ourselves being quizzed as to the day's wanderings. Folk are genuinely interested in what we had been up to and offered local intel on the region and personal experiences. We felt very welcome.

Our days in the lakes region were fairly full in retrospect - there is so much to do. The World of Beatrix Potter (Cumbria Tourism Award 2010 Winner) in Bowness-On-Windermere took me way back to my childhood days when bedtime saw Mrs Tiggy-Winkle and Mr Jeremy Fisher come alive.

From Mr McGregor's replica garden, it only seemed appropriate to visit the home of Beatrix Potter up in Hill Top. A car ferry takes you from Windermere to the West side of the Lake. The ferry accommodates foot passengers, cards, motorbikes, bicycles and amusingly had we wanted to pass with our horse - no problem at all.

The circuitous roads to Hill Top/Near Sawrey are a terrific introduction to Beatrix's once-lifestyle and surrounds. Fields and pastures as green as sweet peas roll right to the roads' edges. They rise, fall and end only when intersected by irregular, crumbling dry stone walls that vein the countryside and nearby forests.

Sheep and lambs adorn the green scene like spilt milk froth and with windows wound down, the ripe smells of country life, creatures and burning farm bonfires sweep through purging the car of any lingering city scents.

We dedicated a whole day to drifting around Lake Windermere. With 'freedom of the lake' tickets we could ferry around as much as we wanted and on all sorts of vessels. Our aim: to ogle the impressive multi million pound lake-shore properties.

Motoring along the roads is terrific for natural scenery but fleeting glances of sublime homes is just a tease. So from Bowness to Lakeside, back to Bowness and then Ambleside, we ferried more than ten miles to view the best of the best as well as some of the lake's more secret islands and older properties. Many date back to the late 1800s.

Fish and chips at Waterhead (the lakes entrance to Ambleside) is a terrific way to end an afternoon of lake cruising. A chip's throw from the ferry terminal and you can kick back on sunny picnic benches with fresh fish and chips. Watch the comings and goings of folk and locals; and to see more of the area, Ambleside is a ten to fifteen minute walk away. The lazy and in need of assistance can take the 'mile bus' into town.

By day three, we had seen much, wandered far and lined up with the crowds to various events and sites. However, Lake Windermere and its back country are not always about 'doing'. In fact it's really a region that offers reflection for the sole traveller, quality time for couples and a hands-on, educational experience for families and their young ones.

With farm animals, hills, valleys, rivers, forests, walks and more; this is a place to wind down and simply take it all in. The spot for escaping crowds and going rural: The Brown Horse Inn.

Perched in Winster, this newly refurbished 1850s coaching inn acts as a gastro-pub, a boutique country B&B and as an agricultural/farming estate. Steve and Karen, the owners, have developed much of the surrounding land into free range farms, vegetable gardens and an onsite microbrewery; making the inn pretty much self sufficient.

This near autonomous scenario was made clear very soon after our check-in when a car boot full of piglets pitched up and bar staff (extended family) topped up the cartons of Brown Horse chook eggs along the bar counter. How wonderful to be amongst this way of life!

The restaurant and bar are super popular with locals and tourists/walkers alike. Both evenings we dined in-house; parties and gatherings kicked off making the inn a very festive and vibey night spot to be. Hunter-green walls emit warmth and, if you look carefully, many of the old and quaint wall hangings depict..a brown horse.

Each evening, we tucked into hand-reared and home-grown meals with no remorse. Chicken liver parfait with pear and saffron chutney with a side of toasted brioche was just scrumptious. As was the duck with a blood orange caramel sauce digested by my partner, and green lipped mussels with crusted parmesan for me. Boy did we eat.

The Brown Horse Inn is a great supporter of local breweries but our favourite ales came from the inn's Winster Valley Brewery, itself. Pints of 'Best Bitter' and 'Old School' slaked our evening thirsts and in the end, we bought a six pack to take home too.

Nine smartly appointed ensuite bedrooms enjoy views out over the Winster Valley. Exposed original beams and fittings highlight the inn's historic character and with white décor, gold rimmed mirrors and frames as well as French-style chairs and lighting; sleep here is solid and restoring.

When we weren't making the most of reading in bed of a morning or out walking the laneways, my favourite pastime was sitting at the edge of the inn's beer garden among the tulips, eavesdropping on drinkers' stories and soaking up a glorious sun.

by Kate Walker