From the cable-car station (2,346 m), take the old Gemmi path and a couple of loops on the old Pass trail (in part with railings) down to the Untere Schmitte, where a sign directs you to the via ferrata (approx. 2,060 m), 20 minutes.
Small via ferrata
Following a clear route around a first corner, and then continuing on the flat, starting from a wild hollow of rock onto the first wire ropes. Move across deep drops to the "Nase" ["Nose"-], where the real climbing adventure begins. Around an airy corner, and then - with good safety - over steep rocks to the "Fredyturm". At this point, take a left to a vertical climb, conquered at its toughest point with three ladders (a total of 76 metres!) - giving you a real sense of the drop below! The spectacular sequence of rungs comes out onto the panoramic promontory of the Obere Gemsfreiheit (2,303 m), where a rest is called for. Then bear left below the rocks to the fork, 2 hours.
Mid-point descent
Using the wire rope security, complete an extended traverse with excellent views on the grassed slope of Mieläss (approx. 2,330 m), and then zig-zagging, avoiding the ruptures in the rock (some wire ropes), descending into the grassy hollow at Tysche (1,832 m; sign for the via ferrata). Continue down the mountain on a well-marked path, across Pischürgraben to the lodges at Fiess and then returning to Leukerbad on the "Geissenweg" path, with occasional short uphill climbs, 2 hours.
Big via ferrata
In the rock gorge above the fork in the route, you can already see the first iron ladder glinting in the sunlight. The sequence of rungs is reached using wire rope and iron pins. The route then has a very demanding climbing section (with pins as footholds; caution - danger of loose rock falling!), before an exposed section to the right leading to the huge shaft (ladders). Just under a hundred metres higher, you come out by the "Hammer", a peculiarly-shaped tower of rock presenting a dark and forbidding challenge; a series of ladders then makes the next, extremely steep and airy climb somewhat easier. Follow the ridge to "Biwakplatz" and over a scree slope to the last, long and steep iron ladder. You come out at the top of the Daubenhorn, 3.30hours.
Descent
Take the white-blue-white marked route across the (crevasse-free) Daubenhorn glacier down to Lämmerenboden and, keeping to the right, back to the Gemmi Pass, 2 hours.
|